to tone or not to tone the hair and why i prefer raw lift
As a color specialist, one of the most common questions I get is: "Are you going to tone my hair after lightening it?" And my answer is—it depends! But often, I actually prefer to skip the toner and work with what’s called a raw lift instead.
Let’s break it down in simple terms:
When we lighten hair, we’re removing the natural color pigment from your strands. What’s left behind is what we call the raw lift—your hair’s natural undertone at that lighter level. Depending on your starting color, this could be a soft golden blonde, a pale yellow, or something slightly warmer. A lot of stylists immediately tone over this to “fix” or “correct” the color, but I don’t always believe that’s necessary.
Here’s why I often skip the toner:
It looks more natural. The raw lift gives a brightness and lightness that looks effortless and sun-kissed. It’s not flat or overly cool—it’s just soft and luminous.
It helps avoid buildup. Toners are still chemicals, and using them repeatedly can contribute to color buildup or dullness over time. By skipping toner when we can, we keep your hair feeling lighter and looking fresher.
It fades more gracefully. Toned hair can shift oddly as it fades. When we start with a clean raw lift, there’s nothing artificial to wear off—and your blonde stays pretty and soft longer.
It supports your overall hair health. As a holistic stylist, I’m always looking for ways to reduce chemical exposure when it’s not needed. Skipping toner when possible means one less product on your hair and scalp—supporting long-term hair integrity and overall well-being.
But here’s the key: you can’t just skip toner without knowing what you’re doing. That’s where my experience as a color specialist comes in. I know exactly what level I need to lift your hair to so that we land on a soft, natural blonde without having to tone over brassiness.
Some stylists rely on toner to fix what the lightener didn’t achieve. I prefer to take my time during the lightening process to lift your hair properly, so it looks beautiful on its own—with no need for a second chemical step.
That being said, there are times when toner is helpful! If we’re aiming for a specific tone (like a cool ash blonde or a beige champagne), or if your hair is lifting unevenly, toner can absolutely help refine the final look. It’s all about choosing what’s right for you.
At the end of the day, my goal is always healthy, radiant, dimensional color that grows out softly and wears beautifully between appointments. And sometimes, that means letting your raw lift shine.
